I have no use for the beach if by “beach” one means the strip of sand between the ocean and the dunes. I am amused by people who lather on sunscreen and sit on a flimsy folding chair under an umbrella in hot, humid weather reading a book when a hundred yards away is a comfortable couch and a perfectly functioning air conditioner.
I enjoy the water especially when there are large waves rolling in from the deep. Like a child I bob up and down in water up to my shoulders that rises to several feet over my head every few seconds. It is best when other family members are with me sharing the glee. We wait for the perfect wave for body surfing toward shore, bobbing over two, diving under one, standing firm against another and then it appears. It has to be the right size and it must be breaking at the right time, just as it arrives where I stand. We celebrate when one of us catches the perfect wave and dives ahead of it at the right time. A good ride can be thirty or forty yards or longer. Most are just enough for a first down.
Today was as good as it gets, Cheryl, Karisa, Justin, Johnmark and myself challenging the surf being offered by the breath of God for our enjoyment. [Alethea is one of those sand sitters who blesses others by watching the children.]
I am blessed and truly thankful.
Saint George Island, Florida
July 21, 2010